Omega Seamaster Professional Chronometer price

Oct 29

One of the greatest company rivalries in horology is between Rolex and Omega. Both are well respected Swiss manufacturers of impeccable timepieces which are steeped in long histories and tradition. Each company also has their respective legion of loyal followers. So, naturally the question is often asked, “who makes the better dive watch?” Rolex? Omega?

Some would say that it’s a fool’s errand to compare two different watches – each has its own merits and should be judged accordingly. However, Rolex’s Submariner and Omega’s Seamaster lend themselves well for direct comparison in both form and function In particular, the Rolex 16610 Y Series, and the Omega 2254.50.00 are models that are easily and logically compared. I will attempt to compare each watch in both relative and objective terms.

Firstly, a word about the methods by which I’m using to evaluate these two watches, and my own personal biases. Firstly, I’m not weighting the categories in any way. Each category (bracelet, clasp, case, price, etc.) are an equal component of the final overall score. For some people, price, for example, is much more an important of a category than, say the clasp. Feel free to weight each of these categories with your own values to arrive at your own conclusions. Secondly, let me disclose that the Seamaster used in this article is my own, while the Submariner belongs to my good friend John Rigano. John and I hang out so much and talk watches, I practically feel like the Submariner’s mine.. although he might not quite see it that way (NOTE: I do own one Rolex – a 1970 Oyster Precision). Let me also say that both of these watches are incredible timepieces – for me to rate one higher than the other doesn’t at all mean that one or the other of these Swiss masterpieces is bad. On to the shootout!

CASE

Seamaster: A perfect blending of form and function – 300 meters water resistant and absolutely gorgeous. A helium release valve is built into the case, making this watch particularly useful in extended time deep dives. The case has numerous angles and curves which vary the way light strikes and is reflected from the case. Yet, there are no sharp corners and it’s completely comfortable. Of course, there’s the gorgeous Sea Monster logo on the case back. I can find no flaw with this case. RATING: 10

Submariner: A simple, yet classic design which has been often copied. This watch is also rated for 300 meters of water resistance (but lacks a helium release mechanism – this feature is found on the Rolex Sea Dweller). Some users complain of uncomfortable sharp edges on the case. Like the bracelet (see my conclusion below on the use of 904 vs. 316L grade steel) the case is constructed from 904 grade steel. RATING: 9

Winner: The Oyster style case was the birth of the diving watch, but let us not forget that Omega was a pioneer in creating a water resistant (or water proof as was designated at the time) watches. The SMP’s larger case size is a bit more impressive, as well as being more in step with the contemporary trend toward larger case sizes. The SMP wins out here in both comfort and cosmetic appeal: SMP

BEZEL

Seamaster: The unidirectional bezel is about the most easily turned which I’ve ever tried. I can easily grip it, and it has nice “click” sound as you make your way around the dial. The markings on the bezel align perfectly with both the dial markers and hands, and are very legible. I find no flaws here. RATING: 10

Submariner: The unidirectional bezel is about the most easily turned which I’ve ever tried. I can easily grip it, and it has nice “click” sound as you make your way around the dial. The markings on the bezel align perfectly with both the dial markers and hands, and are very legible. I find no flaws here. RATING: 10

Winner: Yes, my comments are identical for the bezels of both watches. Both would seem to represent the pinnacle of bezel form and function. TIE

DIAL, MARKERS, & HANDS

Seamaster: This has to be one of the most legible watches ever. The oversized markers and the large sword hands make for excellent visibility. The luminescent coating on the hands and markers makes this watch the undisputed king of night time glow. The wave pattern on the dial is quite captivating and distinctive. The date, while unmagnified is also easily read. RATING: 10

Submariner: The dial of the submariner is a work of art, and perhaps one of the most copied styles in watch history. The Mercedes style hands are a classic. The magnified date seems equally praised and panned – some like it, some don’t (perhaps why the Sea Dweller does not have a date magnifier). RATING: 10

WINNER: There seems to be no observable advantage here – liking one or the other might simply be a matter of personal preference, but I like both equally well. TIE

CRYSTAL

Seamaster: Combines sapphire composition with an anti-reflective coating applied to the inside of the crystal for the ultimate in both scratch resistances and visibility. RATING: 10

Submariner: Sapphire crystal used, but no anti-reflective coating is used. Some have indicated that Rolex does indeed plan to incorporate AR coating in the future, the company is notorious for being slow to change. RATING: 9.0

WINNER: Slight edge given to the SMP because of the AR coating: SMP

BRACELET

Seamaster: The tapered bracelet feels extremely solid and sturdy. The polished accents on the watch are beautiful, but gives one concern about scratches. The push pin links are not easily adjusted (though not as bad as on the “Bond” bracelet). Solid end links are used, and this bracelet isn’t a hair puller. RATING: 7.5

Submariner: The sub bracelet has changed very little over the years. Inexplicably, it has clunky, cheap feel to it. The use of screws in the links makes for easy self-sizing. Brushed finished is both attractive and scratch resistant. Rolex has quite recently (finally) begun using solid end links in the sub bracelet. RATING: 8.5

WINNER: Tough call here – each has obvious strengths and weaknesses. The SMP feels like a higher quality bracelet. The Sub would seem to be a bit less prone to show scratches. Rolex uses a higher grade steel (904) than Omega (316L) in the bracelet. However, I can discern no functional advantage for them to do so in a watch bracelet, and 904 grade steel is approximate 3 times more expensive than 316L. My research indicates 904 grade steel is more commonly used in industrial components which under constant exposure to highly corrosive substances (acids and the like) – conditions which a watch bracelet simply will not be exposed to. Therefore, there is no appreciable benefit to the 904 grade steel in the Rolex bracelet as compared to 316L used in the Omega bracelet. Indeed, no other watch manufacturer uses 904. For ease of sizing and scratch resistance though, this category belongs to Rolex: SUB